Seems to be constant talk around 'low ball' offers etc
So thought I'd start a "newbies guide" where we can add some general rules of thumb around silver bullion value. (if there is another one out there sorry I couldn't see it)
"Rules of thumb" are not a definitive guide, vary from individual to individual, do not replace negotiations and do not apply in all circumstances. Things like postage costs, seller reputation, volume discounts/ongoing business dealing, urgency of sale etc do need to be considered.
I'd like this thread to be used to share "Rules of thumb" or observations around possible values or generic silver and around specific coins/series (Sovereigns/Pandas / Kooks)
Please don't use this thread to point fingers, moan there are no buyers at your price or complain that you were only offered 5% of face value on your proof kilo gold Lunar Horse.
Ok, let's start it off with some of my basic rules of thumb:
Spot
Physical bullion is generally worth over spot (many threads cover why). If a seller offers you spot accept it as it's generally a good deal. But don't offer a seller spot They would be better off taking it to dealer (no counterparty/postage risk etc) *
*"Junk" silver is a possible exception
Silver available at a dealer
If the item is available at a dealer, that should be its maximum value in the second hand market. The seller needs to offer a discount on this price otherwise why should a buyer take on extra counter-party risk?
Rule of thumb would be the 2nd hand market value is around 70%-90% of the dealers margin
(eg. For a 1kg bar worth $730 at spot and selling for $790 at a dealer, 2nd hand market value is about $730 + 70%x$60 to 90%x$60 - In this example $770-$780)
Round 50's
WDavis.com.au is a good source for round 50 pricing.
Rule of thumb would be: If you are not from a capital city with easy access to dealers with this sort of pricing, market value is probably at the upper end (or over) his sell price. Otherwise, aim to pay around the WDavis mid-point.
Low premium 1oz
Generic "low premium" 1oz rounds are worth $2-$4 over spot.
At $2 expect milk spots and no capsule, at $4 the round might look new. Any more than that and buyers can look to buy a brand new ASE/Maple/Philly from a dealer.
EBay
Where it's possible to find previous sales, these are the best guide to value, However:
Ebay prices can't all be trusted. The ones that may be used as a guide are those where the item has already actually sold, is in the same country as the buyer/seller, and that pass the "sniff test"
i.e. don't appear to be too outlandishly high or low, the seller has a good reputation & the overall sale seems legit.
One sale does not make a market price. The more similar sales the more confident you can be in the value. Also consider the spot price when the auction was actually taking place.
When selling on this forum, Ebay prices should be adjusted downward to account for seller's costs (~10-12%) and the extra postage margin sometimes applied on Ebay.
Vintage/Rare
When buying vintage/rare items, beauty and value is in the eye of the beholder, but they are generally worth at least the current equivalent. But the rarer the item, the less relevant spot & past sales are even if sales are recent. Collector premiums are fickle, and if you want to sell your item for a big premium, be prepared for it to take time (weeks+ )
Modern Proofs
Modern proof coins do not generally trade well on this website. Don't be surprised if your one year old mint condition $100-from-the-Perth-Mint 1oz coin that sold out within 1 minute of going on sale is only considered to be worth a modest premium over spot here. Unless it's the current "hot" coin (right now it's the Zeus) this site is unlikely to be your target market for the best value when selling.
If you are going to sell here, accept that you won't get top dollar and put a price on the coin, An EOI might indicate to others that your expectations are too high.
WTB
If you put up a WTB thread for a rare item, expect to pay a premium for the privilege of buying. It's still worth doing to complete your set.
However, don't be afraid to put up a WTB for common items people are reluctant to advertise 1-2 ounce at a time, but there is probably someone around with a spare kook that you want and is happy to sell at a reasonable price.
Overall
The seller will generally know the market for that item better than the buyer, so do not unnecessarily waste their time.
If you do offer a price that is significantly lower than the offer price and/or fair value, be prepared to back it up with a reason. (e.g. link to current or past sales,)
The seller may otherwise (incorrectly) believe that you are low-balling, because they are not aware that you found a dealer offering the same product from a buyback cheaper than them, or that recent ebay sales show premiums have dropped etc
If you have what is perceived to be a high price on your item up front, you are more likely to low balled up front as part of the negotiations.
Finally from me, sometimes it's worth paying a little bit more for an item and building up relationships with sellers. Next time you might get a preferential deal on that special hard to find item!
So thought I'd start a "newbies guide" where we can add some general rules of thumb around silver bullion value. (if there is another one out there sorry I couldn't see it)
"Rules of thumb" are not a definitive guide, vary from individual to individual, do not replace negotiations and do not apply in all circumstances. Things like postage costs, seller reputation, volume discounts/ongoing business dealing, urgency of sale etc do need to be considered.
I'd like this thread to be used to share "Rules of thumb" or observations around possible values or generic silver and around specific coins/series (Sovereigns/Pandas / Kooks)
Please don't use this thread to point fingers, moan there are no buyers at your price or complain that you were only offered 5% of face value on your proof kilo gold Lunar Horse.
Ok, let's start it off with some of my basic rules of thumb:
Spot
Physical bullion is generally worth over spot (many threads cover why). If a seller offers you spot accept it as it's generally a good deal. But don't offer a seller spot They would be better off taking it to dealer (no counterparty/postage risk etc) *
*"Junk" silver is a possible exception
Silver available at a dealer
If the item is available at a dealer, that should be its maximum value in the second hand market. The seller needs to offer a discount on this price otherwise why should a buyer take on extra counter-party risk?
Rule of thumb would be the 2nd hand market value is around 70%-90% of the dealers margin
(eg. For a 1kg bar worth $730 at spot and selling for $790 at a dealer, 2nd hand market value is about $730 + 70%x$60 to 90%x$60 - In this example $770-$780)
Round 50's
WDavis.com.au is a good source for round 50 pricing.
Rule of thumb would be: If you are not from a capital city with easy access to dealers with this sort of pricing, market value is probably at the upper end (or over) his sell price. Otherwise, aim to pay around the WDavis mid-point.
Low premium 1oz
Generic "low premium" 1oz rounds are worth $2-$4 over spot.
At $2 expect milk spots and no capsule, at $4 the round might look new. Any more than that and buyers can look to buy a brand new ASE/Maple/Philly from a dealer.
EBay
Where it's possible to find previous sales, these are the best guide to value, However:
Ebay prices can't all be trusted. The ones that may be used as a guide are those where the item has already actually sold, is in the same country as the buyer/seller, and that pass the "sniff test"
i.e. don't appear to be too outlandishly high or low, the seller has a good reputation & the overall sale seems legit.
One sale does not make a market price. The more similar sales the more confident you can be in the value. Also consider the spot price when the auction was actually taking place.
When selling on this forum, Ebay prices should be adjusted downward to account for seller's costs (~10-12%) and the extra postage margin sometimes applied on Ebay.
Vintage/Rare
When buying vintage/rare items, beauty and value is in the eye of the beholder, but they are generally worth at least the current equivalent. But the rarer the item, the less relevant spot & past sales are even if sales are recent. Collector premiums are fickle, and if you want to sell your item for a big premium, be prepared for it to take time (weeks+ )
Modern Proofs
Modern proof coins do not generally trade well on this website. Don't be surprised if your one year old mint condition $100-from-the-Perth-Mint 1oz coin that sold out within 1 minute of going on sale is only considered to be worth a modest premium over spot here. Unless it's the current "hot" coin (right now it's the Zeus) this site is unlikely to be your target market for the best value when selling.
If you are going to sell here, accept that you won't get top dollar and put a price on the coin, An EOI might indicate to others that your expectations are too high.
WTB
If you put up a WTB thread for a rare item, expect to pay a premium for the privilege of buying. It's still worth doing to complete your set.
However, don't be afraid to put up a WTB for common items people are reluctant to advertise 1-2 ounce at a time, but there is probably someone around with a spare kook that you want and is happy to sell at a reasonable price.
Overall
The seller will generally know the market for that item better than the buyer, so do not unnecessarily waste their time.
If you do offer a price that is significantly lower than the offer price and/or fair value, be prepared to back it up with a reason. (e.g. link to current or past sales,)
The seller may otherwise (incorrectly) believe that you are low-balling, because they are not aware that you found a dealer offering the same product from a buyback cheaper than them, or that recent ebay sales show premiums have dropped etc
If you have what is perceived to be a high price on your item up front, you are more likely to low balled up front as part of the negotiations.
Finally from me, sometimes it's worth paying a little bit more for an item and building up relationships with sellers. Next time you might get a preferential deal on that special hard to find item!