Value of damaged Perth Mint offerings

J

Jislizard

Well-Known Member
Silver Stacker
I know this subject has been done to death repeatedly but what value would be put on a scratched lunar for example?

Obviously most of the lunar population will still be in their plastic case and will be in the same condition as they left the mint and will command a relatively high premium.

The coin is still a Perth Mint product with all the guarantees that come along with that but much less desirable, particularly as they are not that rare.

Would the coin drop down to spot? Down to the price of a generic silver round?

It is still limited in mintage but you don't see them listed in grades as you do for 'proper' numismatics.
 
Spot would be my guess
A few months ago I was offered a SI Lunar tiger 1oz gold with a scratch ,couldn't do anything with it at all
 
Can't get much for spot, (except some of Thucy's numismatics).

Junk silver, maybe less than spot, but 999 silver has to be worth more than pre dec you would hope. Premium on the purity not the finish.

A scratched lunar must be better than a generic buffalo, at least in terms of proof that it is real silver and not a fake. Even generic buffaloes go for more than spot.
 
For me I would value them as "generic round".

I don't think damaged modern NCLT numismatics have any place in a collection - chuck them into the bulk silver stack.
 
APMEX often have ''random year gold etc....'' that includes scratched, no airtites, otherwise mistreated coins that have been priced lower to move them on to new owners. Might be worth taking a look to see if they have anything as a guide.
 
Seems like it would depend on how substantial the damage is/how much eye apeal is lost ... there are some lunar coins that are truly sold as bullion (ie come in tubes without capsiles) so almost always have some level of scratches and they sell at a premium to spot ... Somililand and SuisseGold coins are two examples
 
value of damaged Perth Mint offerings is worth a year of subscription on SS :)

Membership Rate

Silver Stacker 1oz silver for 12 months

worth of offerings to the SS Silver Stacker :)

come on be a Stacker
 
Last year in September I bought a 2012 Proof Silver Dragon 1oz from the Perth Mint.
When i check the coin there were 2 scratches on front of the coin and a fingertip on obverse side at the bottom. By the time i check it, it was too late to send it back to PM.
I knew I could not sell this coin on Feebay. I had only one option, to send coin the NGC to be graded.
I send the coin with my other coins to be graded at NGC, and the coin comeback to my surprise as PR 68.
Then I sold the coin at Feebay for $200 bucks, but i did mentioned all the flaws in my listing.
Here's the NGC link to that coin.
http://www.ngccoin.com/certlookup/CertResults.aspx?CertNumber=2771898-003
 
Just out of interest what would you value these at with damaged capsules, fingerprints and light scratching on Lizzie's head -

S2 5oz mouse
S2 5oz Ox
S2 5oz Tiger
S2 5oz Dragon

All the same due to damage? Or you would pay slightly more for the coins that are commanding a high premium just because they are harder to get? And how much more would you pay.
 
bennybbc said:
Just out of interest what would you value these at with damaged capsules, fingerprints and light scratching on Lizzie's head -

S2 5oz mouse
S2 5oz Ox
S2 5oz Tiger
S2 5oz Dragon

All the same due to damage? Or you would pay slightly more for the coins that are commanding a high premium just because they are harder to get? And how much more would you pay.
Click to expand...
That is a real bummer espescially on the mouse, the scratched capsule dosent matter much , the fingerprints can be removed usually if cleaned quickly but the scratches kills it depending how bad. Hard to value without seeing but not much probably over a round or bar.
 
Jislizard said:
Junk silver, maybe less than spot, but 999 silver has to be worth more than pre dec you would hope. Premium on the purity not the finish.

A scratched lunar must be better than a generic buffalo, at least in terms of proof that it is real silver and not a fake. Even generic buffaloes go for more than spot.
Click to expand...

This is an issue for me, Junk Silver is way over priced,
if it's 80% silver then the silver content is worth 80% of spot,
so 50% silver should be $15oz for the actual silver content, not the whole item.
it's not as if just anyone can melt them down and produce .999 bars from them
and i'm sure it would take energy and expenses to do it, why would a melter pay spot
tro do all that work, only to sell shiny stuff for spot?
 
footycard said:
This is an issue for me, Junk Silver is way over priced,
if it's 80% silver then the silver content is worth 80% of spot,
so 50% silver should be $15oz for the actual silver content, not the whole item.
it's not as if just anyone can melt them down and produce .999 bars from them
and i'm sure it would take energy and expenses to do it, why would a melter pay spot
tro do all that work, only to sell shiny stuff for spot?
Click to expand...
Dude, 50% silver means half of the total is 100% silver. In a 1oz coin that contains 50%silver there is 1/2 oz of pure silver. Do you really not know this, or are you just taking the piss? :lol:
 
nah you've missed the boat "dude"

I know what 50% silver is, i'm saying JUNK 50% silver is worth 50% of it's weight in silver!

Dude!

lol
 
to break it down further, Dude.

if junk 1oz coin has 50% silver, it has 1/2oz silver yeah?
well that's only worth half again, so if 1oz silver is $30,
1/2oz is $15, half of that, My Value (50%) means the coin is worth $7.50

got it now?
 
Cool man if you want to sell any 1966 50's to me let me know. 33% of total content would be about $3.70 a coin.
 
footycard said:
to break it down further, Dude.

if junk 1oz coin has 50% silver, it has 1/2oz silver yeah?
well that's only worth half again, so if 1oz silver is $30,
1/2oz is $15, half of that, My Value (50%) means the coin is worth $7.50

got it now?
Click to expand...
I don't think you really understand friend that the price of silver is the price per oz - I get what you are saying and how you would make an offer, but I think most of us here, and in the rest of the world for that matter, work on the ASW of the item and price accordingly. It's the ASW which matters, not necessarily the purity.

And fwiw, coins especially round 50's are constantly being remelted and reused. It's just what the market does. If the price to sell and smelt is faster cash in hand than holding and reselling later, then sometimes that is the better option for a trader - whereas me, as a stacker, I hold and if in the future I need to sell, well I know I can, based on the ASW of the item and the corresponding spot value, plus any applicable premium as determined by the market at that time.

BTW metalzzz is ripping you off - I'd go to $4 per coin based on your principles :P
 
footycard said:
to break it down further, Dude.

if junk 1oz coin has 50% silver, it has 1/2oz silver yeah?
well that's only worth half again, so if 1oz silver is $30,
1/2oz is $15, half of that, My Value (50%) means the coin is worth $7.50

got it now?
Click to expand...


You shouldn't be buying precious metals..

Stick to footy cards and Tazos..
 
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