I think semi-numismatics is a sales tactic to sell bullion products at higher than bullion premiums. It is pretty much a meaningless phrase, akin to 'lean' or 'lower fat' on a food product.
The real proof is in what you can get when you sell it back to a coin shop, if they won't offer more than bullion then that is probably all it is worth. They will happily slap the label 'semi-numismatic' on anything to increase the price tag .
As to your questions.
Are the Local Coin Shops shifting coins at those prices or are have they just been sitting on the shelves for the past two years? You can ask what you want for a coin but if you want a realistic price you need to know what they are actually selling for.
Coin shops have overheads, rent, staff, electricity etc. so we expect to pay a little extra for their products and in return we expect to get a wider range of choice and some comeback if anything goes wrong. For a private sale we don't expect the same level of service and so we wouldn't expect to pay as much either.
Prices based on eBay sales usually include up to 12% in fees to eBay and Paypal. So if you get the same price as they sell for on eBay you have managed to do better than the people selling there.
If you want a quick sale drop the prices slightly or offer a discount for buying in bulk, if you are not in a rush you can test the prices and if nothing sells you can just drop the prices a week later.
Prices are usually based on three criteria, Rarity, Condition and Desirability.
The Canadian Wildlife was quite a popular series, people seemed to want the whole set. So they are quite desirable.
They made a million of them so not super rare, I have some and I have never consciously set out to buy any, I have no idea where they came from. So they are not particularly rare for this type of product.
The condition is important though. If I have two coins on offer to me at the same price, and one has milk spots and scratches and the other doesn't, then I am probably going to buy the one in the best condition. If I want one in pristine condition I have a million of them to sort through so there is no real pressing need for me to grab the first one that comes along.
You will need to mention all the detracting marks otherwise you are likely to get them returned to you and this can involve additional costs and result in a bad reputation.
Personally I would offer ones without milkspots at a ridiculously high price and then offer the milkspotted ones at the price you would like to get for the coins, people will see the high price of the good ones and might decide to get the bargain discounts instead.
You can always ask for more money for the non milkspotted ones because they are relatively rarer but they could also develop milkspots later, a risk the buyer will have to acknowledge and accept as there is no way that you could know which ones may go on to develop blemishes later. The buyer can decide if the the extra money is worth paying to get a top quality coin.
Semi-numismatics are not held to the same rigorous standards as actual numismatics so dealers will not be checking the coins individually, that is up to you to do so before purchasing them if possible. You can always state at the time that you don't want any with detracting marks but you should still be checking them all. If they are sent by mail and you are unable to check them first it is even more important to let them know before hand that you are only looking for coins at a certain standard. It saves them the time and cost of having to replace coins.
Never assume that they have the same standards as you have and don't expect them to know your standards if you haven't told them.
