New Here but old stacker, stacking again

Discussion in 'Silver' started by tazfan, Feb 3, 2014.

  1. tazfan

    tazfan New Member

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    Hello I have been a lurker here for about a month and this is a great site and decided it was time to join. I was into stacking when silver prices where around 12 dollars an ounce and have been wanting to get back into stacking so I finally decided to do it. I am up in age and want to do more to have something when me and my wife retire in about 20 years. I set myself a goal to have at least 500 ounces by the end of the year. I have about 60 ounces from the previous time and just bought 2 2014 ASE, 2 2014 panda's and 2 2014 Kooks. I have a question that I'm sure that someone can answer.I have been reading that the pandas and the kooks will be a better investment for the future rather than the ASE. Is this because of the lower mintage of the pandas and kooks or is the demand just better for the 2. I look forward to meeting a lot of people on these boards and sharing my journey with everybody. Thanks Randy
     
  2. ego2spare

    ego2spare Well-Known Member

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    pandas and kooks are not a better investment if you plan on keeping them for 20+ years. only buying pandas and kooks will mean u will have a hell of alot less silver so when the silver price goes way up, u will make a HUGE loss (well still a profit, but u will be kicking yourself). if u plan on keeping the coins for 4-6 years and u dont think silver will take off in that time and u just want to flip them, then pandas and kooks are a good choice. if silver booms not many people will give a crap about collectables anymore. so it all depends what u think silver is going to do.

    and WELCOME :D
     
  3. aussiesilver

    aussiesilver Well-Known Member Silver Stacker

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    ASE do not change in design,they only change the date,grab some Kooks and Pandas,no milk spots and a good design will mean $ when you go to sell. Dont buy Sterling or .925,stick with .999 and grab a few bars,they stack well under the bed
     
  4. bja

    bja Member Silver Stacker

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    Welcome
     
  5. tazfan

    tazfan New Member

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    Hello everybody
    Ego2go I do buy a lot of ASEs not just pandas and kooks and I have quite abit of what they call junk silver and Aussiesilver thanks for the advice I have heard to stay away from the sterling but not the others and I do want to buy some bars but I don't think I will keep the under my bed. Don't want to give the wife anymore ammo to throw or hit me with. LOL
     
  6. Greg Williams

    Greg Williams Well-Known Member Silver Stacker

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    Hi & Welcome :)
     
  7. What's wrong with Stirling silver?
    Are you talking about spoons and tea pots, Stirling coins, or both.
    I have a fetish for antiques and have some SS bits and pieces, mainly watches, some antique jewelery etc but I don't really regard this as part of my silver stack.
    Stirling Silver coins though, love em and love to add them to my stack.
     
  8. miniroo

    miniroo Well-Known Member Silver Stacker

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    Hi, stack them kook's higher then the rest.

    just don't go backwards and pay the premium for years you don't have.
    a 20 year stock of kook's. 2014 - 2033 will give you plenty of good stock to flog when the time comes.
    the more of each one you have means less there is on the market, if you spread your wings across 2 or 3 products,
    like kook's, panda's & ase's, your range of stock may be better but you won't have the volume to make any impact.

    You set yourself a goal to have 600 oz this year, if your buying large bars then that's different as your getting more bang for your buck.
    But if your buying it in smaller pieces, like 1oz coins, then im sure you can see that at the end of the year, your in a much better position if you
    had 500 x 1 oz kook's, instead of 100 different bars, 150 kook's, 100 panda's & 150 ase's.

    them 500 kook's out of the system for 20 years helps prime the value up for D day, in 20 years when your the man with the kook's.

    It doesn't have to be kook's, could be panda's or ase's, just think you should pick one thing and stick to it for a 20 year thing.
     
  9. aussiesilver

    aussiesilver Well-Known Member Silver Stacker

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    Sterling silver coins are not generally marked as such, so trying to sell them will be tougher,.999 is marked .999
     
  10. Aussie Matt

    Aussie Matt New Member

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    Hi mate , Welcome I,m new here to everyone has been eager to help and talk a really good site enjoy.
     
  11. Pirocco

    Pirocco Well-Known Member

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    Most old 90% 'junk' isn't marked too, yet they sell like hot cookies. At least in my region.
    I don't think a lack of mark is a reason to be less demanded, I think it's because the coins are less 'known', mostly they are conmemoratives, and that sells indeed harder, and if so, at a lower price. I buy these only if I like a particular design and/or the price is very good. But I can understand why some like them, unlike bullion and even junk, you can end up with a whole variety different coin designs.
     
  12. Yep, coins of a certain era, especially anything over 100 years old, are universally known to be at least 90% silver, unless it's gold. MMMM gold :p
    No need for any mark denoting purity or indeed any expertise in coin collecting, just junk silver. Cheap to buy and very liquid if a sale is called for.
    The rare and expensive coins I have fall into the same category as my antiques, not regarded by me as part of my bullion investment and harder to sell at their true value as they fall into a more discerning market. Totally different ballgame.
    All the common coins have similar and generally well known qualities and are again easily recognizable regardless of numismatic knowledge.
    For example the 1966 Aussie 50 cents is 80% silver but in terms of nett silver content is still an almost exact equivalent of a U.S. half dollar @ 90% silver, 5 Deutschmarks (or Reichsmark rather) at 90%, a Florin from many countries around the world @ 92.5% and so on.
    Junk silver is also the very best way of accumulating fractional silver without the usual sky high premiums of very small amounts of metal.
    I could travel anywhere in the world and be able to exchange any of my junk silver coins for currency or goods of equivalent value with no trouble at all which is what I love about silver and why I see only this as genuine money.
    These common coins are also rarely, if ever, counterfeited, unlike most well known bullion items.
    I see no downside at all in a stacker focusing partially, or even wholly, on common Stirling silver or 90% junk coins. In fact I see it as an absolute must and highly recommend this strategy.
     
  13. mmissinglink

    mmissinglink Active Member

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    Welcome Randy (tazfan),

    I think what you ought to buy to stack depends more on where you live than perhaps any other factor.

    10 oz bars of reputable mints can be a cost effective way to go if you can find low premiums and free shipping. If you are in the U.S. I believe that the 5 oz ATB silver bullion coins are an excellent item....better than ASE's in my view.
     
  14. funman1

    funman1 New Member

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    Welcome!
    Sounds like you are well on your way to stacking like a maniac! :)
     
  15. andrewlee10

    andrewlee10 Well-Known Member Silver Stacker

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    Hi Welcome,

    I am new to this forum too.

    You must think of your objective and strategy before decide on which coin and the size.

    You might consider paper or precious metal equity or unit trust also if pure investment.

    For precious metal view point:-

    Lowest premium bar which is easy to trade in your own country which lead you to lower cost of investment. Coin premium always higher than bar.

    However, certain coin will get semi-numic value like China panda and Perth Mints Lunar. 1 Oz coin always charge higher premium than bigger coin. However, smaller coins usually get more demand in term of semi-numic.

    One tray panda (30 pieces) will sell higher value as compare to individual coin.

    My current personnel strategy is 1 Kg Perth Mints Lunar as precious metal investment. Sell it as semi-numic if able to get Lunar buyer who love big coin. I wish the spot go up and sell at spot if no buyer with right price and right mindset.

    I buy 1 Oz Perth mints Lunar at low value and sell as semi-numic due to low in mintage BUT higher premium of other 1 Oz like Canada maple.

    I buy 1 oz silver panda in tray to sell as semic numic as PM Lunar.

    I buy graded panda which is totally different with omp panda. This consider as higher level of semi-numic or numic in certain way. 1983 1 oz silver panda PF69 sell around USD3300 now.

    To sum up, it depend on your personal investment desire, risks level, timeframe of investment, objective and others.
     
  16. worldbubble

    worldbubble Active Member

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    only semi-numiz.
    buy at release ... sell half later for profit, keep the rest
    profit = coins at spot = insurance from spot drop as well position in the PM
     
  17. tazfan

    tazfan New Member

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    Thanks everybody for the input. I live in the US. This may be a dumb question but what is semi-numiz. I haven't heard that before and what is a tray of pandas.
     
  18. My understanding of semi numis are coins with a small numismatic value above the actual silver weight of the item,
    An example might be say a Franklin half dollar which has a higher numismatic value than a Kennedy half dollar with the same weight in silver.
    Then into numismatics, say for example a 1920's Morgan dollar worth a little over spot price compared to a rare Morgan dollar of which some can be valued in the thousands of dollars.
    Much the same applies to bullion coins and rounds. A limited mintage or proof being higher numismatic ally than a more generic coin.
    A silver Eagle would be a semi numis I would say where a Panda would be more a numis due to a (supposedly) lower mintage. Not a precise science by any means
    A tray of Panda's is a complete unbroken sheet of 30 in the original mint wrapping.
    Expensive sheet of plastic basically which can be seen to raise the value somewhat.
    Kinda like a lady who says "I may have lost my virginity but I've still got the box it came in." ;)
    Hope that helps clarify things a little better.
     
  19. mmissinglink

    mmissinglink Active Member

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    More accurately, it's "semi-numi's" short for semi numismatic, coins where the value is derrived more from collector interest and demand than from the spot price of the precious metal contained in the coin. Compare that to a numismatic coin which gets its entire value from collector interest and demand and a bullion coin which gets its entire value from the spot price of the metal(s) it contains.

    Semi-numis is a very broad category and some coins which are initially sold as bullion coins can attain a semi-numi value. Probably the best examples of this phenomenon are the Perth Mint Lunar series silver bullion coins and the US Mint ATB 5 oz bullion coins both of which series have seen serious increased collector interest and demand since the series began.

    That's not to exclude pure semi-numi coins like the proof Lunars and the "P" version ATB 5 oz collector coins as good examples of semi-numis that are very popular and sought after.

    The great thing about owning semi-numis is that if you are in a financial pinch and the pm market prices are consolidated as they are right now and probably will be for a few more years at least, you will likely get much better return for your purchase if you find the right buyers.


    .
     
  20. Yep, that's a better explanation.
    I did forget about the collectabilty outside precious metals especially.
    To my great shame I own a small copper disc which is worth nearly $30,000 dollars AUD
    Don't know what the hell I was thinking with that one. :|
    Anyone want it? :)
     

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