Identifying copy silver eagles

I have no problem at all with private mints and dealers selling silver rounds which have a design similar to an actual coin so long as there's no deception involved in selling these rounds.

In other words, if the dealer clearly noted that these are silver rounds and didn't try to pawn them off (or describe them in a deceptive way) as genuine ASE's, then I see no problem. They do have the word "COPY" pretty clearly inscribed.

If the dealer, on the other hand, used some sort of deceptive practice to sell these like not describing them as silver rounds and instead calling them "Walking Liberty coins then to me that is deception and I personally would not only want my money back but I would possibly never buy from that seller again.


There are far too many honest sellers and dealers who do not describe a round as a coin and there's no good excuse for a reputable seller/dealer to conflate a round with a coin especially a round that looks very similar to an actual coin.



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Case in point....

I've purchased plenty of rounds like these on eBay (in my earlier stacking days) with no regrets or confusion as to what I was buying...even as a relatively new stacker, it was clear these are not coins but rounds:

311392658599

and

141223995158

and

380895497818


These are not deceptively advertised and the dealers are not trying to pawn them off as "coins" and I like the designs.....so I purchased some of these and other similar rounds.



Of course today I know that most blobs (common, generic, non-denom bars and flat disc rounds like 99.99999% of the silver rounds sold) are more or less melting pot fodder....so I haven't purchased such rounds recently and have no intention to ever again do so (unless I come across too good of a deal to pass up)....but the point is I fully knew I was not buying genuine coins when I purchased those years ago.




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Best to do a density test for silver purity. The pic look suspect to me.

 

Lets assume the dealer did let you know they were copies and you knew the deal.

If they were a completely different design and for the same price, most people wouldn't have had a problem with it for more than one reason. Yes, you can get a better price online or somewhere else depending where you live, but for most brick-mortar stores that's about right. The problem is if you ever need to trade in a shtf situation it would be difficult when people see "copy" on the coin.

 

Hey all, just had the coins tested, they are 100% pure silver, just copies of the real thing, will most likely keep buying them and melt them down into 10 ouncers eventually.

 

why not try buy scraps? if melt i'd prefer use cheaper scraps as they always below spot.

 

If you will only be melting silver rounds down, then paying the premiums you are paying now seems like not a smart thing to do since there's silver products that can be purchased for less premiums and that can be melted down just the same.


Personally, the silver rounds I have purchased which have Walking Liberty, Morgan Dollar, or Mercury Dime designs will be rounds that I end up giving as gifts or which I will sell. I keep them protected in the same way I do my Kooks, Pandas, Libertads, and Perth Lunars. It would be a waste of my money if I treated them as if I paid next to no premium for them. After all, the premium paid is the cost of production (work), more or less.

I do loosely knock such types of products as "fodder for the melting pot" but I don't mean that literally since the premiums on many of these silver rounds can be upwards of 10% depending on varying factors ( see http://www.apmex.com/product/55644/1-oz-silver-round-morgan-dollar-design ).


If you truly want to buy silver to melt down into bars then consider a group buy for a product like this: http://www.apmex.com/product/43773/25-kilo-bag-silver-grain-shot-9999-fine-peoles-803-75-oz



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where do i find these scape bullion, the dealer i go to is the cheapest precious metals dealer in brisbane

 

I ask here.

Many people have the odd milky finger printed rounds and coins.

What I do is when I buy something I like in the forum, I ask the seller if they have any.

I offer $1 above spot.

That way if it is postage purchase, you are not wasting it on low premium

Edit: just tell the person you are dealing with that you are buying to melt
Not all slightly scratched or milky coin are spot +1 a finger printed or small scratched lunar Ox could be still be worth $45