What's your thoughts on graded bears? Is it worth the extra cash for MS70? Which grading company do you prefer?
Slabbed pandas suck. NATURAL HABITAT RUINED. Just kidding. Yeah it's worth the extra for MS70, the growth is much higher in the future but still not my thing. I forgot but one of the companies has a better sealing system to prevent white spotting, they'd be better.
I think price is driven by population. If MS70 had a pop of 3000 & MS69 has 20000 I would expect MS70 to be the pick & worth the extra 50%. Depends what group you want to sell to.. The cashed up Collector person who buys only best or the collector person who gets what is best priced. Just the way I look at it, I'd go MS70, it will go up in price but if you need to sell drop price & it will fly outta the door.
I would not buy a 2010 or 2011 MS-70 silver Panda for a big premium over an ungraded coin or a MS-69; there are just too many of the darn things. Earlier dates are a world unto themselves and worth considering. Best wishes, Peter Anthony http://www.pandacollector.com
Can someone please explain this to me? I was under the assumption you sent a coin away to be graded and it came back with a grade based on the quality of the coin. So you have to pay more for the higher grade? I am confused.
You don't buy a grade. You are right, you pay a fee to have a coin graded and that is that. When purchasing a coin that is already graded, MS70 is mint perfection...these command a high premium because they are flawless coins. MS69 has a minor imperfection and will not attract quite the same premium. Buying anything below MS69 doesn't make sense to me unless it is a rare coin that you want to be sure is authentic.
Here's what I've read regarding the issue, so it's not really my opinion but the opinion of many different experts. let me start by saying I haven't come across an expert reomminding buying MS70s...here what the general consensus seems to be. Nobody, not coin dealers, not even the graders themselves an tell a difference between a 69 and a 70. In fact, people have sent 69's to be regraded and come back 70 or 68 and 70's have come back 69 or 68. Now, these opinions seem to be given for a collector, not a speculator. Now here where my opinion comes in; It seems logical for a speculator to strongly consider 70s because they do appreciate more. But on the other hand, if you could buy say 4 69s for the price of 1 70, maybe you end up with a higher net appreciation, I dunno, probably depends on the coin. Me personally, I buy 69s, partly because I'm just a collector and even experts can't tell the difference visually and partly because I know there is and will always be a demand for 69s if I ever do decide to sell. If I were a speculator and money was no obstacle I'd buy both 69s and 70s or If I were a collector and money was no obstacle I'd buy 70s. Hope that clears everything up LMAO
It can become quite costly when adding all of the shipping expenses and membership requirements. You're better off buying a coin that is already graded, or having a dealer that is partnered with the grading company send it out for you. Here is PCGS info: http://www.pcgs.com/
He's right. All things considered 20 bucks minimum. Which is why I've jumped on graded 2011 MS69 pandas for under 58. You're basically buying a Panda for spot...how cool is that?
That kind od doesn't answer my question. If I were to be visiting the states and wanted to get say 100 coins graded and was willing to travel with them. What is the price per coin?
You wouldn't be able to unless you went to a show where they were present and grading on the spot. It's a service, with usually a turnaround time of a couple weeks.
You can join NGC and submit coins directly. Here's a link. 14 bucks a pop if you showed up at their door http://www.ngccoin.com/MemberPortal/Login.aspx
I've been wondering about this. Are you seriously saying that nobody can tell the difference between a 69 and a 70? Nobody here on the forum could take out their loupe and argue why one coin should be 69 while the other should be 70? They say that the differences should be visible at five times magnification, no? So with a good macro lens, blowing the photo up in full size on the screen, could we then tell the difference, or are they still indistinguishable? I'm intrigued... As for populations: for the 2011, there are 8584 ms70 and 11019 ms69 (MS and MSER) at NGC. So 99 % of the coins submitted have received ms69 or ms70. Hardly seems worth it to grade such perfect coins... Or, contrary, what a good business it is to grade them when you know your chances to get back a high grade is 99 %...
I'm not saying it, I'm saying many experts are saying it. That a grade of 69 or 70 is completely subjective. Internet is full of info to back it up.
I wouldn't be surprised at all if the scoring of a grade 69 or 70 is more or less subjective, however, I would be very interested to hear someone say that they could actually tell the difference, be it with a loupe or with camera equipment or something like that. Anyone?
"Assigning a grade to a coin is an art, not a science. It is often highly subjective, especially when working with Mint State coins." "The real difference in PCGS MS-69 or MS-70 is "fairy dander" and "power dealers" who submit boxes of the stuff and get a token MS-70 for their trouble." In fact I've read where even a 68 is indistinguishable from a 70 with a magnifying glass. Rarely will you find more 'hype' than in the world of numismatics. hence all the first strike and early release malarkey. As I stated as my own opinion, I could see where buying 70s could make sense for a speculator because they'll always be a buyer for a perfect coin and a 69 doesn't count because a grader says so LOL
http://www.pcgs.com/Articles/Detail/5016: "... the PCGS grading standard for MS-70 requires "flawless surfaces under 5x magnification")."
