Hi, I'm considering buying about 400 x 1937 crowns that are being offered to me for 25 each (seller claims they're uncirculated). I've been told to be careful and that potentially they could be fakes. I've got 2 questions regarding this: 1. What is the best way of identifying fakes? I've been told that real 1937 crowns weigh between 28.26 - 28.27gms and that fakes are generally lighter, but no one has been able to tell me within what weight range they are likely to fall within. Can anybody enlighten me on this? 2. I've received a couple of samples and according to my scales, one of them weighs 29.19 but then when I take it to the coin dealer and put them on his more accurate scales they come up right. Does that mean that it's too risky to test them using scales that are potentially out by .07 - .08 grams on such an item? The scales I'm using are 'On Balance MTT 200'. They're quite good but because of this discrepancy I'm wondering if there is something better / more accurate? I've been told that Tanita is a more accurate brand. Any help appreciated! Thanks in advance!
I know this applies to some fake 1938's but may also apply to 1937 Aus crowns... The obverse can have the serif completely missing on the top right stem of the X in REX. The HP under the neck is not fully formed and parts of the B and R lettering are lumpy. Most accurate - get them XRF tested from a bullion dealer before buying. Some coin shop dealers tend to drop them on a counter top and listen to the ring - (not always entirely accurate).
Weighing them will give you an indication if they are real or not to a certain extent but I would see if you could get them XRF'd or similar. I would also be aware of the ole bait and switch, send you some "good" samples and then the rest are naff. Personally, if you aren't 100% positive they are real, I would rather drop 10k at Perth Bullion or Goldstackers on other silver and be safe knowing what I am getting. $25 for uncirculated sounds too good to be true, good luck
$25 for uncirculated sounds too good to be true, good luck I agree. However if the coins are stacker grade examples i.e. good, almost fine, dipped, polished... etc price sounds believable. Other considerations are what would a dealer realistically offer for these coins? Is the seller legitimate? Still great advice regarding XRF, bait and switch etc as above. cheer$
some great suggestions here http://www.silvercoins.com/fake-silver-coins-14-ways-to-spot-counterfeits/