Hi panda fans I was thinking of getting some graded bears and was wondering which grading service is better to collect. How do you find out how many each service has graded in each class for each year. Just for kicks which year or style would you go for and why. For me i think 1 oz silver ms70 of gold ms 70 in years 2000 to 2010 reason nice styles mintages relatively small, prices still affordable Now shoot me down if you want, just a thought
Yeah, I'm starting slowly into graded Pandas too... but I'm still getting the BU pandas while they are affordable... I am also hoping that some of these BU pandas will grade well in the future. NGC I think is the current preferred Panda grading company, but the other one PCGS is apparently more strick on handing out MS-70 grades. NGC is also in China apparently... mmm....shiney knows his graded stuff fairly well
Would it be worthwhile getting a hold of box and COA of the slabbed coin also? Or price would still be same if you try to resell down the track with slabbed coin only?
MS-70 means a flawless coins (no flaws whatsoever)... but MatrixOpals would put together a compelling argument that many things don't get much better than a MS-69.
Compared to the old butcher down the road yes, compared to another collector no. But thanks anyway yennus. This is what I've learnt in the last couple of months - 2 months experience only. This is the dummie's guide to graded coins, written by a dummie. 1. Graded coins from a trustworthy dealer are the safest way to buy coins if you don't have much experience. 2. For investment purposes, if buying modern chinese coins choose graded coins that are 69/70 only. 3. NGC coins seem to be slightly preferred over PCGS, I think it's mainly to do with the style of holder rather than quality of service, it may well have something to do with experience as yennus pointed out - I don't know. I wouldn't bother with any other companies. 4. Both coin grading companies have websites that allow you to search the authenticity and population statistics of your selected coin: http://www.ngccoin.com/certlookup/index.aspx http://www.pcgs.com/cert/ 5. Depending on the mintage numbers of the coin, a graded 68 would have about the same value as a raw coin in its original mint wrapper, a 69 may fetch 2-3 times raw coin value whereas a 70 may be 2 -3 times the value of a 69. 6. If you ever want to go down the path of getting a coin graded, it should really be sent to NCS first for conserving and then it can be delivered to NGC. The NCS conservation will help protect your coin from deterioration (the dreaded "white spots of death"). 7. There are fake slabbed coin holders on the market, beware (See point 1) 8. As far as COA's and boxes go, it might make a difference to the price you get for a coin, but it really depends on the buyer's preference. As matrix pointed out he prefers COA's and raw coins, others don't care if the COA is with the slabbed coin or not. You can always buy COA's and boxes on their own if you're that concerned and match them to a coin you have - not honest but As far as the above point, there is no way to identify a number on a COA with a particular coin. Coins come in sheets, COA's come in stacks. I only own one graded panda (I lied, just checked my inventory, got 2)- I actually prefer the design of other Chinese coins (don't read that bit yennus ), but the Pandas will remain the most popular coin as a whole. I know it's been said before, but if you're into Chinese coins and haven't already done so, you need to subscribe to Peter Anthony's "Panda Pricepedia". In the last issue, he and another collector sat down and listed the coins they would buy and why, (Good on you Pete - got that issue the day after I spent a few g on coins :/ at least one of my choices was on one of the lists), needless to say though that once that issue came out the price of all the coins listed would probably have gone straight up. Also this link has been posted before (or maybe I was hiding it until I'd bought what I wanted? ) and is essential reading as well: http://www.livebusinesschat.com/smf/index.php?topic=4663.0 Now someone else can correct all my errors or add to the above.
Well, if you can wait 10 years I'll sell you mine. Don't know too many places in australia, apparently downies gets them. ebay has a lot of graded pandas, especially from out of the states. If you go to the link from livebusinesschat above, the list of coins available on ebay is shown as well as comments about them. This thread has some info about dealers in the states: http://forums.silverstackers.com/topic-2278-panda-coin-set.html
The Sheldon Grading System PO-1 Identifiable date and type FR-2 Mostly worn, though some detail is visible AG-3 Worn rims but most lettering is readable though worn G-4 Slightly worn rims, flat detail, peripheral lettering nearly full G-6 Rims complete with flat detail, peripheral lettering full VG-8 Design worn with slight detail VG-10 Design worn with slight detail, slightly clearer F-12 Some deeply recessed areas with detail, all lettering sharp F-15 Slightly more detail in the recessed areas, all lettering sharp VF-20 Some definition of detail, all lettering full and sharp VF-25 Slightly more definition in the detail and lettering VF-30 Almost complete detail with flat areas VF-35 Detail is complete but worn with high points flat EF-40 Detail is complete with most high points slightly flat EF-45 Detail is complete with some high points flat AU-50 Full detail with friction over most of the surface, slight flatness on high points AU-53 Full detail with friction over 1/2 or more of surface, very slight flatness on high points AU-55 Full detail with friction on less than 1/2 surface, mainly on high points AU-58 Full detail with only slight friction on the high points MS/PR-60 No wear. May have many heavy marks/hairlines, strike may not be full MS/PR-61 No wear. Multiple heavy marks/hairlines, strike may not be full MS/PR-62 No wear. Slightly less marks/hairlines, strike may not be full MS/PR-63 Moderate number/size marks/hairlines, strike may not be full MS/PR-64 Few marks/hairlines or a couple of severe ones, strike should be average or above MS/PR-65 Minor marks/hairlines though none in focal areas, above average strike MS/PR-66 Few minor marks/hairlines not in focal areas, good strike MS/PR-67 Virtually as struck with minor imperfections, very well struck MS/PR-68 Virtually as struck with slight imperfections, slightest weakness of strike allowed MS/PR-69 Virtually as struck with minuscule imperfections, near full strike necessary MS/PR-70 As struck, with full strike, PERFECT *PO-Poor FR- Fair AG - About Good G-Good VG-Very Good F-Fine VF-Very Fine EF-Extra Fine AU-About Uncirculated MS-Mint State PR-Proof DCAM-Deep Cameo (means deep mirror like/highly polished finishing)
Any coin dealers here that want to become an authorized dealer of NGC? I'm sure this would be a fantastic coin service for Australia, and would be very profitable.
Thanks steampunk... someone should get Scotty in here... I'm sure he would be overwhelmed by the amount of business we Panda fans would send his way
Top stuff! Invite him to the Panda Forum, I'm sure we can give him lots of business if he's interested.
Good job! I think you've got it mostly covered so I'll just share my personal opinion and some thoughts: 1) To the best of my knowledge, PCGS allows people to access its population report on its website. For NGC, you have to be a paid member of Collector's Society. It's only $39 (USD) for a year's subscription and I think it's worth the money. The subscription will allow you to submit coins for conservation and/or grading directly to NCS and/or NGC, respectively. 2) I personally prefer NGC over PCGS because I like the holder (slab) of NGC better. In addition, NGC preserved the rare coins of the Smithsonian in the US so I have more faith in how their holders can preserve my coins for the long term. That being said, PCGS is also a top notch grading company although they specialize more with US coins. 3) To protect yourself from fake slabs, make sure that the certification number matches the number on the slab and that the coin inside also matches the pictures on the websites of NGC and PCGS (not sure if PCGS shows pictures but I'm sure NGC does). It's very difficult to make a convincing fake that shows the correct details for BOTH the slab and the coin inside. 4) If you're starting to collect pandas and you want some sort of insurance against fakes, I strongly suggest buying graded coins. These not only have the guarantee of authenticity, you can also be sure of the quality of the coin and feel comfortable about the long-term protection the coins have from being inside the holder. Graded coins will be more expensive (especially the 69s and 70s). However, I think you get what you pay for. Take note though that sometimes coins with white spots can still be graded 68 or higher. This is because the grading companies do not consider the white spots a defect (since they are part of the minting process) so they do not affect the grade of the coin unless they are very big and distracting. This is one reason why you should insist on looking at the picture of the coin even if it is graded or buy from a seller with a decent return policy.
Universal Coins are PCGS authoritars. I've chosen to go with NCS/NGC as they have more experience with modern Chinese coins apparently. Can't find any NCS authoritars in Australia. Ordinary people can not send coins directly to NCS/NGC, you have to go through a dealer or join as a member. So I'm up to step 1: Join as an associate member of the NGC Collectors Society for $39/year http://www.ncscoin.com//MemberPortal/Login.aspx
