:lol: Most of my photo's recently have been with an Iphone3 & a loop Some have been with a cheap android phone , it has a better camera than the iphone Also have a compact slr I don't like it compared to the phone camera
cheers spannermokney ... I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed. am I able to ask what is a "loop". hope all is well.
Best coin photos I have seen are by TomD77 who I think is a forum member http://www.flickr.com/photos/tomd77/sets/72157603959095587/?page=3 This looks like one of his setups. http://www.flickr.com/photos/tomd77/3951747640/in/set-72157603959095587 Lighting is the key but other important things are Camera on tripod with external shutter release If you got a fancy SLR camera then MLU(mirror lock up) further stops vibration with the shutter slapping down Finding the optimal aperture for your macro lens - usually F11-16 in good ones http://www.flickr.com/photos/tomd77/3951747640/in/set-72157603959095587
Wouldn't call it impossible. It just takes a good camera, a good lens, lighting, patience and a lot of experimenting. 2001-Kookaburra by TomD77, on Flickr 2013 Koala by TomD77, on Flickr Azteca Calendario on a copper splash background by TomD77, on Flickr America the Beautiful Vicksburg 5-oz silver by TomD77, on Flickr
1---If you're interested in pro-level techniques and you can get you hands on a copy, check out -- http://www.amazon.com/Numismatic-Ph...182169&sr=1-1&keywords=numismatic+photography 2---If you use a cellphone to do your shooting, BE SURE to disable the GPS geotagging function before you shoot pix that you intend to post. If you fail to do so, the GPS metadata imbedded in the image will make world-wide public info of the exact latitude and longitude coordinates where you shot the pix. This can be a great way to unknowingly invite unwanted visitors. Edit---#2 also applies to the more recent digital cameras that come GPS-equipped for geotagging.
TomD Excellent work Tom. You give credit to the equipment, but expensive keyboards do not write good novels, and expensive cameras do not take good photographs. It is not the tools as much as the craftsman. For such a specialized thing as "silver coins", some very basic equipment should do the job. I'm acting as a plumber today, but I'll see what I can get with an ipad tomorrow. I think I can come pretty close to your quality. It looks like you used a light tent, but whatever it is, it works. I'll try a light tent with an ipad and see what I get. ~ ~ Okay, so I signed up for flicker and see your light tent/box. Nice Bogen Tripod. I'll see what I can do without the big bucks.
Well, not so good. Below link is what I was able to put together this morning, with an ipad and a window. About 3 hours of work, rounding up odds and ends. I haven't done any photography in the last few years. We did have a tabletop set up when we were doing ebay, but that was in the 90's. If you want Tom's excellent results, equipment will be about $2000 US, and of course you will have to learn how to use it. The three dimensional quality his photos have should be do-able with an ipad, but better lighting is needed. I tried to keep it as simple as possible, but I will need bright sun with the tent, or some spots like he uses. Mine turned out rather flat. A big disappointment. Today is overcast, snow, and below freezing temps. I was going to go outside, but no chance of that for a while. On my flickr page are photos of the basic setup I used, with tent and without. I just used a wire basket upside down. The ASE is with the tent, and one side light incandescent bulb, gives a slight orange glow to the bottom. It is best to stay with total daylight, or total tungsten. The Pandas are no tent, just the window light. The one with the black finish had black velvet above the coin, taped to the bottom of the basket. The one with the white finish had a piece of white cardboard instead of black fabric. I have appointments this afternoon, but I will have another go at it later this week. I could never match Tom's quality with an ipad, but I thought I could get about 80-90%, but it hasn't worked out so far. The lighting is more important than the lens. http://www.flickr.com/photos/118614927@N03/with/12772013865/
I'll usually have 5+ lights, 1 or more at a very flat angle and then look at the coin from the camera angle while moving it around looking for the shot I want. The lights don't cost much, they're just $10 clamp ons with $5 5500K CFL bulbs. It takes several lights working together to make the light and shadow. The absolutely hardest to get good results with are the ones with smooth reflective subjects. 2009 Lunar Bull by TomD77, on Flickr 2014 Lunar Horse by TomD77, on Flickr
OK, so I know I am being very cheeky here, but old camera is up for trade and will do a much better job that your ipad! http://forums.silverstackers.com/message-642485.html#p642485 Just thought I would mention that! lol To answer one of your questions too - stick with all window light. If you can use a sheet of white paper as a reflector you will be able to even out the light coming from the window with some light from the room side. This will help give a better balance of light. You can also use tin foil, but I like the diffused light yu get from white paper better.
I had no idea you cold get 5500k bulbs for that price. I have been out of the loop for a while. Supplier? The Pandas are basically mirrors with designs. Glassware and shiny metals are the most challenging. I didn't get to look up any of your Bios - at this point I take you to be a specialist photographer (coins). Most professional photographers wouldn't take the time to reach your level of excellence, no money in it. It is very easy for a studio photographer to do a very good, even great job with things like coins, but seriously, you have taken it to another level. Ten of ten. The coins show your technical expertise, and the backgrounds show your artistic eye. I noticed on at least some of your photos you are using the black reflection for mirrored finishes. I'm guessing that is the best that can be done, as I see no googled images any better. It is a little disappointing, does not compare to the actual coin (looking at 1981 Queen Canadian silver dollar). That is the way photography is, some thing look better than real life, some not as good. My goal is to see what can be done with a simple digital camera, like the ipad. A tripod is the most undervalued piece of photography equipment, but no tripod for an ipad, or the kind of digital camera most stackers would already have. This means no front shooting (camera viewpoint) into the light box. This should not be a major problem. ~ ~ Briefly about myself: First university class in photography in 1969, as an Education major, not art or photography. University newspaper and yearbook photographer until 1972 when I went into the Navy as a photographer. We were doing most of our work with 4x5 Speed Graphics at that time, but also used Leicas, Nikons, 120 format, and even 8x10 view cameras from time to time. Quite a eye opener for a hot shot college kid that thought he know a lot about photography. With my wife's blessing I opened a studio in the 80's. Like in the Navy, I did a little of everything, portraits and wedding primarily - unlike the Navy. I loved doing high school seniors, hated weddings. The studio was too much time, no benefits, and the hand writing was on the wall for digital. I was having digital retouching done on negs, but needed to get out of film completely, big investment. I had a full line of Canon bodies and lenses, but did most of my studio work with a Pentax 6x7. Horseman 6x7 my all time favorite camera. Handles like a Speed Graphic, but with swings and tilts like a view. Lots of different backs for roll film and sheet film, probably digital backs today. The glass is tack sharp, every bit as good as Hasselblad, and a friendlier format. I have no idea of your ambition, but the only way your images could improve with be with a view camera. Another whole ball game, but it could add another layer to the three dimensional quality you are so good at. I was never very good with a view camera. I doubt that you would want to invest the money and time to go there, but if you have a burning desire....... I have bought and sold complete 35mm systems twice, and medium format three times. I only have point and shoot today. My intentions were to explore the capabilities of the ipad as an outlet. If I start building a digital system, it will be because of seeing your work. Thank you.
Lighting makes a tremendous difference. Knowing which backgrounds to use help a bit as well. Not much of a comparison here but set up 3 lamps with 5000k LED bulbs and can say it is definitely worth it. I'll have to play with the lighting a bit more and try to introduce a couple more. One on the left is with a 5MP camera on my phone and the one on the right is the older 1210MFP scanner I had been using for taking pictures for my inventory. Just spent the last few hours replacing all of the photos for the inventory.
I am no photography expert at all, but I usually use my missus's cannon SLR for a better result. I have also attempted pics using an iphone 4 using this setup (with a home made light box). http://www.coincommunity.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=160092 Here is an example of the result:
Hey guys if any of you are familiar with CorelDraw there and some fantastic enhancements you can utilise to improve your picture quality. I am in the sign industry and use Corel for my wide format printing signage and photographs Cheers Rick
Forget getting too technical, the first thing you need to know is what is the MINIMUM focus distance. Do NOT get too close that is why so many people's shots are blurry (yes light, camera shake) a sharp photo is much better to view details than a blurry out of focus shot.
I'd be up for that! I have never attempted to photograph a coin before, but I have most of what I would need, I expect. Lets get a site sponsor to put up a prize too! Think I'll test out the macro on my new camera.
connect the camera to human brain, then snap it. :lol: not sure the camera/computer can digitize it out